Showing posts with label design. Show all posts
Showing posts with label design. Show all posts

Sunday, 5 January 2014

Christopher Shannon: 'I’m not led by Savile Row'

When I visit Christopher Shannon in his London studio on the last Friday before Christmas, he’s just had a glass of Bucks Fizz to “get through” a fitting of the autumn/winter ’14 collection he will show this Wednesday. But, as the designer’s plentiful Twitter following can attest – he doesn’t need a glass of fizz to loosen his lips. Shannon a Liverpool-born Central Saint Martins graduate has taken to the social network with aplomb – delivering sardonic observations sprinkled with tantalising behind-the-scenes gossip.

But his acerbic persona is meant mostly in jest, and luckily his subjects can see the funny side. At the recent British Fashion Awards, Shannon was approached by Dermot O’Leary, who jokingly quoted back a tweet that had disparaged him as a choice for a role as menswear ambassador. “I thought, ‘Twitter’s really caught up with me’,” he tells me.

Despite that interaction, the British Fashion Awards were something of a disappointing night for Shannon, who lost out on the award for emerging menswear designer to duo Agi & Sam. Considering that Shannon graduated in 2008, and has two successful menswear lines stocked in more than 50 stores internationally to his name as well as a veritable bounty of collaborations under his belt, it seemed somewhat unfair for him to still be classed as emerging. “I made my peace with the British Fashion Awards long ago, it’s so not me as a scene,” he says. “You should always antagonise the establishment… I haven’t got a problem with Savile Row but I’m not going to be led by it.”

Fashion designer Christopher Shannon

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Indeed, Shannon’s aesthetic is a world away from the buttoned-up style of Savile Row, but he finds it “lazy” to label his work as sportswear, and the same goes for those who focus on his Liverpudlian roots. “My mum finds it outrageous,” he says. “I moved to London when I was 18 so I was a kid. I mean I’m very much from Liverpool, but I don’t sit around thinking about it. That’s other people’s perception.”

His latest collection – a series of sketches, fabric swatches and unfinished samples when I visit – may be making a rod for his own back then. Shannon tells me the mood was set by old photographs of Liverpool and job centres in the Seventies: “I realised so many of the images I had are sort of broken-down. I was thinking about the first track suits, which apart from being for sport or school kit would have been homemade from a pattern. I was thinking about that really synthetic quality of fabric and that shape and fit – that sort of seedy connotation that I quite liked about it.

“Then I realised that the images were all of the early Thatcher years and people were smoking in all of them and how fabulous all the fag packets were. And everything that I looked at had a fag packet and some wallpaper in, and that really sums up the time. Aspirational but really depressing.”

Complicated as this may seem, Shannon creates catwalk shows that can’t help but engage the audience. For spring/summer ’14, models with glitter-spray-painted hair wore acid pastel shirts and shorts in latex, Liberty prints and patent leather. Inspiration had come in part from a photo of Shannon on his 16th birthday, doused in glitter and ready to rave.

Fashion designer Chris Shannon's mood board, seen ahead of his December 2013 menswear show in London (Teri Pengilley)

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Unusually, he doesn’t work with a stylist, casting agent or music consultant, preferring to work with his studio team. “The boys [male models] have changed so much in London since I started. Which I think I was quite fundamental to because we always did a different casting. Now there’s a really good mix, people from all over and with different skin tones and it feels like what I always wanted casting to be.”

After his BA, Shannon had to choose between a job as a print designer and a scholarship to continue his studies at Central Saint Martins with an MA in Menswear. “I thought, ‘I’m going to have to go.’ It was the first time they’d offered a scholarship for years, and if Louise Wilson offers you a scholarship then you accept it.”

Upon graduation, Shannon thought that he would take a job in a design house, but he was drafted in to the prestigious Topman-sponsored MAN line-up, then awarded NewGen sponsorship. “I haven’t really stopped to think since then!” Perhaps being head of his own label was Shannon’s destiny – both his parents were self-employed and as he freely admits: “I was never very good with authority.”

Fashion designer Chris Shannon's mood board, seen ahead of his December 2013 menswear show in London (Teri Pengilley)

Since graduating, Shannon has collaborated with Eastpak, Kickers, Topman and the Cambridge Satchel Company, and in early 2012 launched Kidda – a second, more affordable offering that does particularly well: “We sold out 100 per cent in Liverpool, full price. Nobody does that.” That same year, he was one of three London designers chosen to create costumes for the opening ceremony of the London Olympics. “It wasn’t a nightmare, but I felt a bit pushed into it emotionally. If someone else had been asked, maybe I’d have been miffed, but I’m glad I did it because my family, who went, enjoyed it so much.”

Sadly, once his show on Wednesday is over, Shannon won’t get the “month off” he always hopes for. Instead, this year will see him publish a book, finally create a much-in-demand women’s collection and work with Judy Blame on tour costumes for his childhood idol Neneh Cherry, as well as launch a collaboration with footwear brand Dune. If he had the time, Shannon would love his own fragrance and to design menswear for Moschino.

With that work ethic, no wonder he’s always exhausted: “People think you swan in, have a glass of wine, light a Diptyque, photocopy a lipstick reference and then go home. Running your own company is really hard work.” Hard work it may be, but, right now, Shannon wouldn’t do anything else – other than have a month off!

Wednesday, 18 December 2013

Dior Homme Is the Latest Men’s Label to Make Pre-Collections a Priority

Dior can smell a trend in the offing. The label’s artistic director for menswear, Kris Van Assche—as well as, presumably, his corporate bosses—sensed the growing importance of pre-collections for menswear and have begun to treat them with the pomp and circumstance formerly accorded to Fall and Spring. “At the start, a few seasons ago, these pre-collections were basically pre-deliveries of the main collections,” Van Assche told. “But now, with their strong commercial success, I understood the need for four independent, freestanding collections a year. We have now started calling these in-between collections Spring and Autumn, and the show collections Summer and Winter. These independent pre-collections tell a whole new story, away from the runway. I chose to present them to the press through catalogs, videos, and installations, like the one we had in Omotesando, Japan, in November, for the Spring collection.”

Dior Homme

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The story Van Assche set out to tell for Autumn—what other labels call Pre-Fall—is about an art student from Antwerp or Berlin. (Van Assche is Belgian himself and graduated, in his student days, from Antwerp’s Royal Academy of Fine Arts.) His wardrobe mixes the tailored pieces Dior Homme is famous for with more of the youth-inflected sportswear that’s a particular Van Assche fascination—sometimes in the same garment. (Blazer sleeves can be narrowed or expanded by zippers like those found on biker jackets, for example.) “His wardrobe is composed of various pieces bought on different occasions,” he says, “A blazer, a leather biker jacket, a bright red duffle coat, some knits, the typical ‘art student’ narrow black jeans, and, of course, black combat boots.”

There’s a new graphicism to some of the items, from printed suits to printed shirts, the latter of which owe a debt to the graphics of new wave (“which the art student would obviously be listening to”). But the main innovation of the collection is that, fittingly to its more commercial bent, it was conceived as separate, sales-friendly pieces. “The newest thing for me as a design concept,” Van Assche said, “was to think not in total looks but in strong separate pieces, and then make them work as an outfit.”

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Monday, 4 November 2013

Michael Kors Holiday 2013 Campaign

The Michael Kors holiday 2013 campaign shot in New York by talented photographer Mario Testino is based on the idea that the holiday season is the best season of all. With that in mind, the renowned designer created a series of looks that would be modern yet festive: "When I was designing holiday, I kept thinking about how can you have it all. I love the idea of this rock-and-roll, denim and diamonds Christmas. It’s cozy but glamorous—the perfect combination for the holidays."

For the new Michael Kors holiday 2013 ads, the luxury brand enlisted the help of models Corey Baptiste, Ji Hye Park, Julia Frauche, Karmen Pedaru, Lais Ribeiro, Simon Nessman and Victor Nylander, to create the perfect holiday party atmosphere and unveil the potential of the gorgeous pieces. A single glance at the new set of ads is enough to prove that the pieces are versatile indeed, something that can't usually be said about most holiday offerings.

Michael Kors Holiday 2013 Ads

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Among the cool pieces from the new Michael Kors campaign for holiday 2013 are tank tops, gorgeous metallic pants and jeans, fluffy jackets, animal printed dresses and jumpsuits and sparkly tops. The pieces are combined simply yet cleverly to create an effortlessly cool allure every single time. Though the looks seem fairly simple, the accessories add a special, luxurious touch. Practical handbags, eye-catching bracelets, classy rings, modern classy watches and many more make these cool looks inspirational and memorable.

Taking a few style cues from the new campaign is definitely helpful if you're looking for modern outfit ideas to make a statement without sacrificing completely functionality. Modern, cozy, glamorous and sexy is usually a rare style combination but is one that instantly impresses when all done right, so the new ads definitely fit the criteria.

Monday, 21 October 2013

Sienna Miller Says She's Over Her "It Girl" Style , Plus 5 More Surprising Celeb Quotes on Fashion

It’s the end of an “It Girl” era. Sienna Miller has unofficially resigned as one of our favorite style icons, confessing in a recent interview to Elle that she is kind of over fashion.

It was Miller’s rise to fashion fame that made her dislike it so much: “The way I dressed became so imitated that I kind of fell out of love with it.”

Perhaps it’s just a dark style period in her life. Miller is hopeful that she’ll fall back in love with clothes again, but as of now, her focus lies elsewhere: Her new baby. “It’s pretty hard to be a new mother and think about fashion, but I hope I’ll get my style mojo back one of these days,” she said.

Miller’s quote admittedly caught us pretty off-guard — and so did these other celebrity quotes on style.

1. “I am who I am. I can’t pretend to be somebody who makes $25,000 a year.” —Gwyneth Paltrow

Oh, Gwyneth. Just when you’ve almost convinced us that you’re kind of like us, with your obsession with cheese and your love for Beyonce, you go and say something like this. And although it is severely obnoxious, she’s just being honest. No one with a $25K salary can afford her $79 socks or the $2,000 basic white dress goop teamed up with Stella McCartney to make.

2. Christian Louboutin wishes “That everybody could afford my shoes.”

In AnOther’s Proust questionnaire with Christian Louboutin, the world renowned shoemaker revealed that if he could wish one change in the world it would be that everybody could afford his shoes. Thanks, Christian. Now, make it happen.

3. “Golf is a sport for white men dressed like black pimps.” —Tiger Woods

Gasp…? OK, maybe you’re not totally surprised by what Tiger Woods has to say anymore, but this particular thought on fashion comes a little unexpected. We don’t know if Ben Hogan or Arnold Palmer would agree with this statement.

4. “When I come home I actually take off all my clothes, and I wear no clothes until I leave. I eat naked. I do everything completely naked.” —Tom Ford

Everyone may be rocking Tom Ford, but the fashion designer himself might actually be rocking nothing at all. In an 2011 interview with Interview, the man famous for designing beautiful tailored suits and shirts revealed that he preferred being in the nude rather than dressed in any kind of clothing at all.

5. “I feel like every girl is trying to have a beauty shot and prove that they’re ‘fashion.’ But I can be in white leggings and a white sports bra and I’m on a whole other level of shit that those girls don’t even get yet because they don’t know how to do it.” —Miley Cyrus

In a recent interview with Harper’s Bazaar, Miley Cyrus really laid out her thoughts on her personal style, confirming that she is nowhere near close to lacking in confidence.

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Tuesday, 15 October 2013

Summer '14 trend: Maxi dresses and jumpsuits

With Indian designers rapidly moving towards the pret side of the business, smaller, homegrown brands finally stand vindicated on what they've been saying for a while - the discerning Indian woman consumer wants to spend on western wear but often finds herself out of options. Vidhi, Director/ Designer at B: Kind chats with us about creating options for this market, the trends for the upcoming season and where she seeks her inspiration from.

How long did you study the Indian market before coming out with your brand?

I have been researching for the longest time and I always wanted to launch a brand in India looking at the dearth of western wear fashion brands since as a country, we are still dominated by the ethnic wear segment. Formal research took us about six months before we launched with our store in 2010.

The idea was to create a brand of clothing which is stylish and affordable. We spend our time creating brand presence among Indian women who are interested in western wear.

How frequently do you come out with a collection?

We come out with two main seasons - summer and winter festive. We also try and bring out two smaller seasons in between.

Where do you seek inspiration from?

Major part of the inspiration definitely comes from travelling across the globe. Besides I guess looking at women in everyday clothing is the best form of inspiration since it helps you study, "what women are comfortable in most" since that is our end motto as well, comfortable clothes for women in all age groups.

For the current season, what is your mood board like?

Summer 2014 is what we are working on currently. There are a lot of pastel shades. Prints will be our signature in "mix and match" styles. Comfortable silhouettes are definitely the need of the hour.

What trends do you foresee for the coming season?

Summer 2014 is all about comfortable clothing, maxi dresses and jumpsuits.

Sunday, 13 October 2013

Shah Rukh Khan talks about balance, belief and hashtags

Shah Rukh Khan

Just a few days back my friends at the dnapaper called upon me to write a monthly column for their newspaper. A Common perception about actors is that they are incompetent at everything other than acting (and some are supposedly incompetent at that too). We aren’t exactly meant to have other interests (well, except of the controversial kind) but as it happens, I do. I like to write.

Of late I have spent time on twitter like we all do and on the internet in general. The combined pressure of 140 alphabet limit and reading new words like ‘Twerking’ (described aptly by someone on the net as ‘masquerading an ass seizure as dancing’), has made me believe that I could contribute to the all round well being of the society with my writings also. What actually convinced me was, that if Hashtags # (a sign we earlier used for cuss words), can convey emotions, then my words on paper can also seem like pearls of wisdom and its about time my smart, genius side became public. So I decided to grab the axe and hack my foot myself by entering into 12 such potentially earth shattering observations of the world around me.

I have thus come up with the “brilliant” and “original” idea of writing about the 12 Sun Signs. But wait...This isn’t your usual weekly or daily astro prediction column. That is best left to Mr. Bejan Daruwala, Marjorie Orr or Linda Goodman. I just think it’s a good place to start. 12 Columns, 12 Sun Signs, 12 traits I can write about. So I will pick the traits of these 12 Sun Signs and choose one that stands out the most then I’ll write around it. I’ll write my personal experience, my point of view or just something I see happening around me. Confused. Ok, read on.

This month we begin with Libra.

Librans are known for balance and harmony. The word balance tends to convey stillness, but oddly I look at balance as something that we need in life to keep things moving. It’s something that we all have to do...everyone from a tightrope walker to an accountant requires balance. An accountant has to balance debit with credit, while a star has to balance a public life with a private life. Most people have to balance lies and truth, or right and wrong. In my years of experience, one of the most intriguing balances I have had to find is that between Science and Superstition.

In India we are intrinsically tied to Superstition. It’s a natural nuance of our lives. I am a science student (over 90 percent in Electronics if I may add). This does not mean that I can open up a piece of electronic equipment and put it back together again. On that front I am like everybody else in the world: left holding one little ‘gizmoic’ part of the equipment, scratching my head, wondering, “where was this supposed to fit?” but more about this in another column.

Being of a scientific bent of mind, I always take the scientific course of action. If a part of my body is disintegrating or broke, I am more than willing to change it at the hands of an expert, namely a Surgeon. I have had eight such removals and implants done over the course of 20 years.

Thankfully, so far, no surgeon has come to me post operation and quizzed, “Eh, SRK I have this little piece of green spleen left-over from last night’s procedure, can you tell me if it belongs to you or then it could be bed number 42’s.”

So I am a believer of science and its many benefits. Having said that, I would still not go for a bungee jump or do a skydive on Friday the 13th. Hashtag # Just Saying.

Some years ago I was faced with the balancing act of weighing my scientific bent against superstition. One evening I got to know my spine had a prolapsed disc and I had to go under the knife. It’s a big surgery. It’s considered equivalent to a brain surgery (from which I might just have benefitted more!) because it involves the spinal cord.

As it happens, it also proved to be one of the grandest acts of equanimity I ended up engaging in.

Everybody began to foretell doom. They listed all that could go wrong. They said I could be paralysed or rendered voiceless. Thoughts raced in my own head as well. The doctors advised surgery as soon as possible.

I was as scared as anyone might be at the thought of their spine being tampered with so I gave a year to those who said they could cure my prolapse through the prolapse of medical science.

Let me make it clear that I am not trying to undermine people’s beliefs or superstitions. Different things work for different people. If you believe in something then it works for you. A recent study has proved that people who believe in superstition get the job done better than those who don’t, so who are we to question the world of the unknown and its unkown-ness.

To me it was just intriguing that there was such a wonderful variety of cures and treatments on offer for a serious injury like mine.

My family and friends all suggested different treatments ranging from acupuncture to oil made from the sting of a scorpion. I am proud to tell you that because of the deep desire to keep the ‘BALANCE’ (in caps because that’s the topic) of things unperturbed I tried most of them.

What follows is an account of some of my escapades and misadventures up to the final day of surgery. These are excerpts from my yet unpublished book and as you will read, you will realise there is no stretching or exaggeration of factual happenings. The names of the protagonists have been changed to maintain their privacy and mainly to prevent them from suing or physically assaulting me in the near future.

……The doctor that I went to for, what I will call ‘pin therapy’ is a wonderful doctor. He’s among the leading doctors for this therapy in the world. He also spoke three words of Hindi taught to him by other Indian clients (obviously he didn’t know the meaning of those words, otherwise he would never use them, unless abusing your mom and sister was a part of his therapy).

The thought of him sticking needles in my neck was scary. But I need not have worried. He didn’t want to put needles in my neck, instead he wanted to stick them in my private parts to fix my neck!

As you can imagine it was an extremely hurtful prospect. I was shaken to the core of my being (not to mention, below it).

He was from the Far East and we didn’t understand each other well. He kept repeating, “Take off your clothes, take off your clothes”. So, I took off my shirt, but it didn’t seem to suffice. He continued his chant regardless: ‘take off your clothes.”

Soon I was lying naked on his table and he had these big, big pins in his hands. The rest is too graphic to describe. It was the most humiliating and painful experience of my life.

Ordeal over, I came back marred by blue welts. The only thing that had changed was that now the pain was between my legs and not in my neck. I can tell you it distracted me enough to make me forget my original complaint. Though once I recovered from the onslaught of the pin-pricks, my neck pain resurfaced with a vengeance.

Now and then I think of the good doctor and my upbringing tugs at my conscience. I never thanked him. Maybe I should have sent him a note…in Hindi…just the three words that he had been taught!

……The ‘Energy Experts’ meanwhile, had decided that the reason for my cervical disc prolapse was the direction in which I slept.

So the position of my bed had to be changed. Change is good. Novelty is invigorating; it’s the spice of life. I like change. There were a few problems that came up though. My plasma TV was affixed to the wall keeping in mind the original position of my bed. Taking out those brackets from the wall would have meant re-building it. So the TV stayed where it was and the only way to can watch it was to somehow stand on my head. My bedside lamp shed its light on my bathroom slippers instead of the book that I read in bed. The bathroom door ended up where the TV should have been. Though I must admit, the six episodes of the slightly swaying bathroom door, seemed more interesting than some of the stuff we are subjected to on the idiot box.

The headrest hung inexplicably in mid air without a bed to support it. If I could levitate 10 inches off the ground I might have been able to rest my head on it.

My AC remote did nothing remotely anymore. It needed to be directed towards the fridge to get the AC on. I guess the rays would bounce off the shiny surface and find their way to the infra red sensor on the AC. Strangely the rays did not follow the same reverse path and to switch the damn thing off, I’d need to swing to the bottom of the bed and point in random directions till I’d hear the AC stop breathing.

…I made a frantic call to my surgeon in England. I told him I was coming over to his hospital in the next few days. He was very concerned. He asked, “ Are you in pain’’. ‘No’, I replied, “ I am in my bath tub trying to sleep, apparently this area has the best energies.” Hashtag # Help!

...My friends requested me one last time to see their Panditji before I left for England. They felt his prayers would help me. I agreed because I believe in good wishes and good Karma. The Punditji looked educated and very modern. He asked me about the procedure of the Cervical surgery. I explained it to him in detail. He closed his eyes and said some mantra. Then he looked at me with warm and peaceful eyes, and said, “Are you sure they have to use a Titanium disc?” I said, “ Yeah, it’s the latest invention and really cool.” He sighed, “ Look it is your Karma that you have to undergo this surgery. You cannot escape it. But there is only one thing, Titanium is not your element, can you ask the doctor to use Moonstone instead.”

...The surgery was less painful. It took about an hour and a half. I was informed everything was excellent. As they say in our films… “The operation is successful.”

What was humiliating was the hospital dress code.

I believe a patient in a gown means that he or she is very ill and quite helpless. They need a lot of care and medical attention. It is a sort of uniform that tells you the person wearing it, is deserving of your sympathy and concern. No one expects a Stella McCartney, but at least...at least it should not make you dissolve into a merciless giggle. Picture a hobbling and helpless patient crossing you, walking slowly away from you. You’re following him with your eyes, visibly moved, at this point your gaze misses his helpless expression entirely and lands unceremoniously on his butt. What purpose does this revealing and utterly humiliating outfit serve? I ask ye all fine people of the medical profession. Even when I had gone for my knee and ankle surgery in Austria I was forced to wear this silly outfit. I could very well have been in shorts or Bermudas and got my knee operated on. It’s not as if my butt needs to be flashed for easy access to my knee. I think this aspect of clothing needs to be relooked at by the Medical Faculty around the world.

It requires immediate, scientific attention.

As I said, the complete collapse of everyone else’s attempts to cure me through their well meant suggestions, eventually lead me to my spinal surgery. This of course did not deter them from claiming credit for its success when I got home. The horseshoe nailed outside my room in my absence had apparently cast its magic spell on the surgeon.

The ‘Energy Expert’ was convinced that his switching my furniture around had filled the gap in my spine and my friends swore by their Panditji’s imaginary Moonstone too. Maybe it was the Energy Balancing, maybe it was the Surgery, or it could have been the shoeless horse; who knows?

Perhaps Faith and Science are deeply interconnected. Maybe we just don’t see the balance between them yet. Everything science proves today, it disproves tomorrow and faith in an idea often brings it to its empirical fruition. Superstition is the belief in a supernatural causality, we cannot completely abandon it unless we fully understand the complexity and vastness of nature. I think it is safe to say that there are uncountable things in this world that will always remain beyond our understanding. Each of us chooses our own beliefs and lives by them and all of us are limited by our own condition. The trick is to respect each and every form of well meaning course of

action, belief, superstition and still look up to man’s quest for knowledge (the yearning for scientific discovery), to back it up. That’s what I did.

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Tuesday, 8 October 2013

Why no plus-sized male models?

While non-conventionally sized models Crystal Renn, Kate Upton and Robyn Lawley conquer covers, campaigns, catwalks and editorials, one group have been conspicuously left out of the glossy picture - plus-size male models.

Why have we not questioned the absence of plus-size male models in the media? Women's magazines are increasingly answering the call to include more 'real'-looking models in their spreads while titles such as GQ and Vogue's male-targeted editions continue to flog a very narrow view of what it means to be beautiful.

According to The New York Times, the standard male mannequin size has shrunk from a 42" chest and a 33" waist to a 35" chest and a 27" waist in the past 40 years. And those numbers are getting smaller still. Though, generally speaking, the average male model embodies an ideal that is healthier than your average female model, the media-propagated 'norm' is still limited and unattainable.

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The modern-day dude is bombarded with images of jacked-up perfection in the form of rock hard pectorals and the anonymous six-packs you find in Abercrombie & Fitch catalogues. And on the other side of the spectrum, Hedi Slimane peddles an ideal that's just as detached from reality. The Dior Homme cum Saint Laurent designer has popularised the angular, boy-from-the-band look, choosing hollow-cheeked, prepubescent-looking models for his runway.

When it comes to issues of vanity and self-loathing, men are far from immune. According to The Butterfly Foundation, the number of males suffering from eating disorders is on the rise. Though discussion around beauty standards and body acceptance has tended to focus solely on women - these issues are just as real for men.

Could the lack of plus-size male models have to do with the lack of plus-size ready-to-wear fashion? That could very well be the case. While women's fashion moves tentatively toward promoting a wider, healthier size gamut - what with the rise of plus-size fashion blogs, more businesses expanding their ranges, Rick Owen's sizeable steppers at Paris Fashion Week and New York Fashion Week presenting its first plus-size show - the same cannot be said for men's fashion.

If you're an XL or up, there's no use looking to Valet or Mr. Porter for sartorial inspiration. The more discerning big-and-tall shopper will find there are few options available. Though the market is there, the industry is yet to be created.

There's also confusion around the definition of what it means to be a 'plus-size' male model. While women's plus-size is stringently defined and based on the perception that curves are sexy, the equivalent curves on a male - beer guts, pot bellies and love handles - are not. Any figure that's slightly meatier and more in line with your average Joe - think Alec Baldwin, Seth Rogen, even Russell Crowe - is perceived as pudgy and soft.

To broaden the male model niche would encourage more brands and magazines to hop on board the plus-size train and vice versa. Just as is the case with women, for men to see bigger dudes in fashion shoots is both reassuring and empowering for body confidence. And what's more, we think broader chests, thicker arms, beefier bellies and more rounded bottoms can often look quite marvellous on a guy ...

Thursday, 3 October 2013

Marc Jacobs says farewell to Louis Vuitton

What was likely designer Marc Jacobs' last ready-to-wear collection for Louis Vuitton looked like a show in mourning - black, black and more black.

A dark fountain and a nightmarish carousel with inky horses were the backdrop for a universe of clothes all in black. Maids cleaned away dust from the steps of the disturbing set, which traced Jacobs' influential 16-year reign at Vuitton.

Shortly after the show at the Louvre Museum in Paris, the visual metaphor was explained: French luxury conglomerate LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton announced that Jacobs was stepping down as creative director of its flagship brand.

Jacobs, who is also the director of an eponymous brand, is one of the biggest names in the fashion industry. Under his tenure, Louis Vuitton became the most lucrative fashion house in the world, in part thanks to his creation of a ready-to-wear line.

Fashion designer Marc Jacobs acknowledges applause following the presentation of the ready-to-wear Spring/Summer 2014 fashion collection he designed for Louis Vuitton.Photo / AP

LVMH, which owns the Louis Vuitton brand and an array of other luxury names purveying everything from jewelry to champagne, would not say who would replace Jacobs or what his next move would be.

From her front-row seat, U.S. Vogue editor Anna Wintour gave Jacobs an ovation at Wednesday's show.

"Fashion needs rock stars, and they don't come any starrier than Marc at Louis Vuitton," she told The Associated Press in an email.

"He has always understood that it is a house about travel, and every season he has taken us on incredible journeys with his spectacular shows shows that made Vuitton a global phenomenon but always brought you back to the heart of Paris."

Such visible acclaim from the powerful editor - to whom he partly dedicated the show - is extremely rare.

On the Vuitton catwalk, models filed by in jet-black warrior-feathered headdresses as they displayed Jacobs' 41 designs. The pieces used embroidered black tulle stockings, Eisenhower jackets embellished with large feathered shoulders, dark embroideries, smoking jackets and some 1940s baggy blue jeans.

The glimmering landscape was towered over by a huge clock whose arm went back in time. It was as if the designer was trying to look to the past or even get some precious time back.

Louis Vuitton 2014 Spring/Summer ready-to-wear collection.Photo / AFP

Even the clothes went back in time. Floor-length, thick Edwardian dresses with large sleeves fused with black decorative corset details, evoking fashions of the 1900s and contrasting with the more revealing "showgirl" looks.

"We went back and used all the different bits of the sets of the past and made them black," Jacobs explained backstage. He didn't elaborate on his plans or comment on reports that he's focusing on a possible public offering for the Marc Jacobs brand.

Jacobs expanded the Vuitton brand from its iconic bags into clothes, launching ready-to-wear and shoe collections in 1998. At the time, it was seen as a marketing strategy to help raise the profile of the luxury house, which began as a leather bag and case maker in 19th-century Paris, when aristocratic women needed fashionable travel bags.

While Vuitton's clothes are not a red-carpet staple, Jacobs' shows always attract A-list celebrities. Kate Moss has been a muse for him, and director Sofia Coppola has just made a series of handbags for Louis Vuitton.

Coppola, Princess Charlene of Monaco and the Hollywood's Fanning sisters were among those at Wednesday's show.

In the program notes, Jacobs enclosed an emotional message to LVMH's CEO: "For... Bernard Arnault. All my love, always."

Glenda Bailey, the influential U.S. editor of Harper's Bazaar, said the show signaled "an end of an era."

"Watching the show was like seeing your life flash before your eyes, because there were so many memorable moments referenced," she told the AP, referring to touches like "Louis Vuitton" prints, corsetry shapes, high-collared sweeping silhouettes or large, embroidered paillettes.

"Marc brought such incredible energy to Louis Vuitton and should really be celebrated for bringing that house to life, and creating the vision that someone else will now take forward," Bailey added.

Bailey would not speculate on rumors that Jacobs will be replaced by designer Nicolas Ghesquiere, who left Balenciaga last November. But she said the new designer will have unique opportunities thanks to LVMH's solid financial footing.