Tuesday, 27 August 2013

Racing certainties

Whether men deserve their reputation as creatures of habit is a matter for some debate, as is the use of sweeping generalisations referring to half the population. As such, although trends are important for men, there are certain references that never seem to go out of fashion – they are simply tweaked and refined to evolve continually.

Approaching the “if it ain’t broke” view from a different angle is Topman, which has just relaunched its LTD collection with a range of vintage-inspired pieces. On first glance, it appears very much in keeping with the perennially popular Americana varsity theme, with zip-front bomber jackets, rolled-hem jeans and numerous variations on the classic T-shirt, but the real inspiration was not the norm. The designers behind the range dubbed “Pitwall” instead looked to the British racing tracks of the Forties – a time when motor racing as a popular spectator sport was under starter’s orders.

“So much of the styling, the fit and the prints of the Fifties are key to the LTD aesthetic,” LTD designer Nick Eley says. “But finding a fresh take on a well-reinterpreted era was always a conscious decision for us. Our initial inspiration was a trip to the Goodwood Revival – the beautiful old cars, the Forties- and Fifties-themed dress and the history of the racing circuit were the starting point for a theme that saw us delve into the world of the early pioneers of motor racing.”

While nodding to the past, there is no chance of looking like a relic with this interpretation: “Finding the right balance between modern and vintage is tricky,” Eley explains. “The last thing we wanted to do was produce a historical range of motor-racing garments. The clothes needed to be wearable and contemporary; taking inspiration from both the drivers and their mechanics allowed us to do this.” Traditional racing stripes and leather jackets of the drivers are combined with modern embroidered cotton jackets, mechanic-print T-shirts and short-sleeved sweaters, ensuring that the clothes can be layered without feeling “too overtly ‘motor racing’”.

Topman’s main line is also inspired by “what goes on around us”, with the growth of sportswear and streetwear playing a major part. LTD is a way to appeal to an older customer and differentiate from the brand’s other offerings aiming for, somewhat ironically given the inspiration, a less breakneck speed than seasonal trends.

Thursday, 22 August 2013

Muslim fashion show and exhibit highlight mall’s celebration of Eid’l Fitr

A showcase of Muslim fashion was one of the highlights at the recent Eid’l Fitr Festival at The Block in SM City North Edsa.

The Festival of the Breaking of the Fast is a worldwide celebration that marks the end of the Holy Month of Ramadan. It is an important event that usually falls on the first day of Shawwal, the 10th month of the Islamic calendar. More than that, it is a time of joy, forgiving and thanksgiving among Muslims as they take the occasion to strengthen ties with family and friends, give gifts and alms, and feast together.

Sultanate fashion

The show, “Habi at Hiyas ng mga Dayang Dayang at Bai,” gave mallgoers a rare glimpse of the formal and traditional attire of Muslim nobility. Members of the Sultanates of Sulu-Maguindanao, and Lanao, represented by Bai Aminah Razziah Tamano Lucman, Datu Reza Sinsuat and Dayang Dayang Hadji Rosalyn Rose Bahjin-Swadjaan, wore their resplendent robes designed with intricate embroideries and weaves symbolic to each house.

The fashion show, which featured clothes designed by Amir Sali, Cora Manimbo and Len Cabili, paired with exquisite filigree jewelry by Oskar Atendido, closed the three-day celebration.

Amir Sali Aluk, popularly known as Amir Sali, the Prince of Beads, is the only Filipino in the Middle East Interior Designer’s Association and is a favorite designer and couturier of Middle East princesses.

He worked for 17 years in Egypt and Saudi Arabia where royal family members were his prime clients.

Len Cabili is the founder and creative designer of Filip+Inna. As a child growing up in Iligan City, Mindanao, she would remember visits to her home by Maranaos in all their finery. The impression they made on her is the heart of Filip+Inna, which is inspired by the traditional with the contemporary to create timeless and unique pieces.

Filip+Inna brings into each garment ancient techniques of weaving, embroidery and beadwork from different indigenous groups of the Philippines. Its mission is to create while also reviving endangered ancient traditions.

Cora Manimbo started designing Filipiniana dresses only in 1997, yet she has built a prestigious image with clients from as far as Europe, the Middle East and the US. She has made clothes for Muslim nobility in Mindanao and other Asian countries, as well as gowns for Saudi Arabian princesses.

The three-day event also had an exhibit of Muslim attire by Pitoy Moreno and Patis Tesoro.

Spearheaded by the Magbassa Kita Foundation and SM City North Edsa, together with the Philippine Center for Islam and Democracy, the Autonomous Region in Muslim Mindanao, and the National Commission of Muslim Filipinos, the affair was a springboard to build better understanding and appreciation among Filipinos of ethnic, racial and religious diversity in the country.

Monday, 19 August 2013

Successful "One Dress a Day" Launch Pairs Flash Fashion With Retro Selectivity

Bruno Schiavi, owner of Jupi Corporation, design partner with the Kardashian sisters, and self-described "fashion whisperer," is always looking for gaps in the fashion market. His latest effort along those lines is a website called One Dress a Day, which launched last week and is already selling out their cocktail-friendly designs. Schiavi's concept is simple: One new, limited-edition dress per day, 365 days a year, available from XS-XL, each with its own brief styling video. As of Monday morning, he's debuted eight dresses that range from $139-$179, two of which have already sold out.

One Dress a Day hits two very desirable sweet spots in the world of fashion retailing. It taps into the immediate gratification of the internet by fulfilling our craving for new and right now — a different dress every day of the year? It's our childhood fantasy come to life. Somewhat counterintuitively, however, it's also a return to old-school selectivity — a haven of simplicity in a world of so many online shopping options, reminiscent of days spent browsing small boutiques, being waited on by salespeople and taken to the back room to be shown the latest stock (OK, maybe that only happens to royalty). Although the dresses are flashy and selective and new, they won't be available forever — each dress will only hang around the website for 30 days, or until it sells out. And if you hate the day's dress offering, there's nothing you can do about it for a solid 24 hours. In this day and age, that can feel like a lifetime.

Yes, a site like this means you'll avoid fashion horror stories like running into your ex's new girlfriend while wearing the exact same Anthropologie frock, though dresses have all been pretty predictable so far; if there are fashion risk-takers in the bunch, we haven't seen them yet. The debut dress was a pretty, basic, sequined LBD, but the emphasis on bodycon offerings (three out of the current eight dresses) just feels so... Kardashian Kollection. The riskiest dress so far has been a classic fit-and-flare tea dress shape in striking fern green with gold lace overlay and a droopy belt — sort of like something Anne Boleyn might wear if she were transported to Downton Abbey. Believe it or not, this was the first dress to sell out. The daily styling videos are awfully basic, too: One of them instructs us to pair a wild print with — wait for it! — neutral accessories.

Thankfully, Instagramed shots from an L.A. press preview party reveal that upcoming styles get a little more wild and a lot more sequined, which is one surefire way to get us to click "refresh."

Thursday, 15 August 2013

Meet Maria Korovilas: My Dope Designer Friend Who Is Setting Out to Make It Big in Fashion

In full disclosure, I fell in love with the aesthetic of the designer you're about to meet long before the seams of our lives were sewn together. It all started in a USC sorority house with girls discussing their dreams (yes, very Legally Blonde!). Anyway, my pal Maria Korovilas fantasized about becoming the next Phoebe Philo, my other friend Sophia Bush aspired to flaunt her acting chops, and my goal was to channel Carrie Bradshaw (sans sex-life quandaries, just the fashion, people!). Well, we all come together right here in this story as a reminder to always shoot for the moon.

The three of us hit the ground running: I started writing up a storm here in L.A., Sophia headed to North Carolina to take on her role as Brooke on One Tree Hill, all while Maria wrapped her brain around the ins and outs of the design world. After over 10 years of toil, we're now happily thriving in our respective industries.

sophia-bush-vh1-awards

But, Maria's bohemian collection of whimsical lace dresses and punk-leather separates, Korovilas is now shining in the klieg lights. She earned the honor of showing on GenArt's Fresh Faces In Fashion runway (the same catwalk that brought Phillip Lim and the Mulleavy sisters to our attention), can be found at Planet Blue, Satine, and Neiman Marcus in the next few weeks, and has received some really glowing reviews. Women's Wear Daily West Coast Bureau chief Marcy Medina says, "Korovilas is one of the most promising new lines out of Los Angeles. It offers a fresh, young, and polished viewpoint in the growing dress market, and designer Maria Korovilas seems to have a grasp on growing the business slowly but surely. And, retailers such as Neiman Marcus are taking note."

The line had its first red-carpet coup at the VH1 Do Something Awards on none other than our college compadre...Sophia Bush. To complete the coming-full-circle situation, both of them will be my bridesmaids in September, and Maria and I are designing the wedding dress I referenced in my introduction to you. (Insert misty eyes and warm fuzzies here!).

Without further ado, here are some of my fiercely creative BFF's swoonworthy looks and a glimpse at what makes her tick.

Tell us how you got your start...

"I was always drawn to clothing. When I was little my mom taught me how to do basic stitches on the home sewing machine and I would lay my dolls over fabric, trace their bodies, cut them out, and sew up a dress made by sight. For me it’s been a sixth sense. Proper training came for me, though, when I went to get my MFA in fashion and textile design at the Academy of Art University. I left there knowing how to sketch properly, drape, pattern draft, construct garments, use creative computer programs, a ton of couture handiwork techniques, and make my own prints via several methods. It’s the complete knowledge of those processes that also make me a much more effective, efficient, and focused creative director."

Describe the Korovilas girl in 10 words or less...

"The thinking man’s sex symbol. Individual, sophisticated, magnetic, beauty, confounding."

What was your inspiration for fall?

"The collection came around a time when my entire worldview was shifting, as strange as that sounds. I had previously been enamored with this sort of 'gypsy, bohemian, dirty- pretty-things, light, and free-spirited' mentality that I had lived by as long as I could remember. And at that time in my life, something just flipped a switch. So, my thought process veered into: 'Who is this girl when she’s on the flipside?' The answer was more nipped, tucked, a prim-and-proper veneer, but the fabrics were still luxe and had a lot of depth and texture in their novelty. That collection and time in my life kind of changed me."

korovilas-lace-dress

Where do you foresee the line in five years?

"My dream has always been to have something akin to Montmarte’s '20s or Warhol’s '60s in L.A. I want to create my own version of the 'factory.' I’d like to get the house prints up and running and do some cool collaborations with interesting artists. I have a whole plan for integrating textiles, but it will take some time to get it off the ground. Fashion is my marriage, but I have affairs with film, music, and interiors. I cheat constructively!"

What do you have up your stylish sleeve next?

"The wheels are always turning on this side of town! I have to keep some things a secret, but I can tell you I plan to launch a bridal collection in the near future. For now, I’m testing the waters by doing custom bridal projects, which has been a great outlet for getting back into some of my 'couture' processes and doing amazing details that couldn’t be done in production."

What's your number-one piece of advice for aspiring designers?

"Know the rules, so you can know how to break them. Know yourself, so you can know how to break you. Then, put it all back together, and build something. We create our own lives. This Jim Morrison quote is on my wall and is my daily mantra: 'Expose yourself to your deepest fear; after that, fear has no power, and the fear of freedom shrinks and vanishes. You are free.'"

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Monday, 12 August 2013

New Ts are heart of school nonuniform ‘uniforms’

The T-shirt is one of fashion’s most basic items, but even with today’s popular slim cuts, there’s wiggle room to change up the style. That can be pretty important to the kids and teenagers who practically live in them but like to feel that they have something new when they go back to school.

This year’s news comes in next-generation graphics, old-school characters, and witty or powerful phrases.

“The best and most memorable graphic Ts throughout the years are the ones that capture the pulse of that time,” said Tana Ward, senior vice president and chief merchandising officer for American Eagle.

Because of the price – and frequency of wear – T-shirt trends also can move quickly because they aren’t intended as long-term investment pieces.

“This is an affordable fashion change,” said Seventeen fashion director Gina Kelly.

“Graphics are really, really big in the teenage market, and so is nostalgia,” Kelly said. “At 16, a girl understands irony, and that makes it cool to do some things. You also have T-shirt companies borrowing from the runways like Givenchy, and that’s where you'll see space prints, high-fashion prints – and photo-realism prints are definitely big, too.”

Fashion-Stepped Up T-Shirts

It’s all about image and messaging, which this generation is very comfortable with, she said. “It’s about affirmation on your chest. You are making your statement, whether you are making fun of designers with a ‘Celine as Celfie’ shirt or saying you loved Hello Kitty when you were in kindergarten. … It’s the antithesis of a few years ago when all she wanted was the perfect Alex Wang plain-gray, perfect-weight T.”

The heavily logoed look also is passe, says American Eagle’s Ward. “Today, our customer is focused on projecting a personal identity. … Our girl is also much more aware of the artistic side of graphic design and how it adds texture and interest to her outfit.”

All she needs is a circle mini skirt and a pair of printed jeans (two other popular back-to-school items this year), and she is good to go, said Kelly.

T-shirts also can be a canvas for other trends.

In the Aeropostale fall lineup, there are cartoon cameras, faded flags and collegiate stripes on the shirts. Emilia Fabricant, executive vice president of Aeropostale, says kids and teenagers like to wear a “uniform,” they just need enough variety so it doesn’t look the same every day.

For younger kids, there are colorblocked sleeves, retro ringer necklines and new printing techniques. In J. Crew’s Crewcuts collection there are glow-in-the-dark graphics for boys and sparkle for girls.

“We use our own children as laboratories. And definitely access our inner children,” said head of design Jenny Cooper.

Statement T-shirts, with words, embellishment or images, are expressive but are not fashion risks, said Betsy Zanjani, senior vice president of design products for Forever 21. “To say ‘graphic T' as a trend is a broad, brush-stroke characterization, but what the T-shirt is has become very specific, with multiple things driving it.”

Zanjani ticks off the comics craze – taking note of the pop culture phenomenon that Comic-Con has become – as one of the strongest influences. Forever 21 has opened in-store Marvel Comics shops as the retailer noted “an almost cult following of old-school comic strips and vintage action figures,” she said. “Things that are vintage and retro are really strong in both our male and female businesses.”

The surprise might be the strong sales of “Boom! Pow! Bam!” with young women, but Susan Fields, vice president of product merchandising for Marvel Entertainment, said a good character transcends gender. Still, there has to be the right fit and fabric, and that’s why Marvel partnered with Forever 21. “We needed to walk away from the boys’ boxy T-shirt.”

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Thursday, 8 August 2013

What shampoo to use for color-treated hair

For those who color their hair or are thinking about it seriously, the important thing to remember is that the first 15 days after the coloring session are the most crucial. Your responsibility does not end the moment you leave the salon.

The right shampoo and conditioner must be applied, because most Filipino women—regardless of hair type—have oily scalp which smells, gets greasy and is susceptible to dandruff when not thoroughly cleansed.

Using shampoo formulated for oily hair will solve the scalp problem, but this will mutilate the colored hair strands by frying them dry and stripping away color. The hair ends up brassy, rusty and dried out in a few weeks’ time—a waste of money.

The old shampoo that I use for the first 15 days on my color-treated hair gives me silky strands and great color, but I also get the oily scalp problems plus excessive falling hair.

L’Oreal shampoo

Thankfully I discovered L’Oreal EverPure Sulfate-free shampoo and conditioner, which cleans oily scalp thoroughly as well as pampers colored strands so that the color stays gorgeous and hair smells fresh and clean with no strong perfume scent. Also, the scalp does not grease up for at least 24 hours.

This one actually has a rich lather and the infused rosemary mint neutralizes the oiliness—preventing odor- and dandruff-causing bacteria from thriving.

But it’s only available at hair salons that carry L’Oreal products.

Avene Sensitive White

Women with sensitive skin are most prone to skin discoloration. The problem is aggravated by most skin-brightening products, whose sting makes the skin red, itchy and maybe even scarred with more spots.

Other products are usually too weak to yield significant results.

The French brand Avene has launched a product for sensitive skin and effective skin brightening called the Avene Sensitive White line.

Start with a skin cleanser of your choice, followed by the Avene Whitening Lotion, Essence, and, depending on your skin type, the Whitening Fluid for oily skin, or the Cream for dry skin.

I use Cleanance for my acne-prone sensitive skin, while most people use the soap-free sensitive skin cleanser.

The Avene Lotion/Toner has a different texture compared to most other brands. It’s a hybrid of liquid and gel and contains a high dosage of myrtle extract that inhibits melanin production and regulates skin pigmentation.

The Essence has a slight tingle that is very tolerable. I religiously top it with the SPF 50 Sunblock that I reapply every three hours as long as there is sunlight.

I slacked off on skin brightening and sunblock the past few months, causing pigmentation to go wild on my face and making me two shades darker in foundation. Using Avene has put things back in order.

The Avene Sensitive White line is 50-percent off till the end of August at select Mercury Drug outlets.

Celeteque

Also try Celeteque’s Skin Whitening Line, which is formulated for sensitive skin. Those with dry, sensitive skin might consider switching the facial cleanser for their hydrating line.

If you need to even out your skin fast for an important event, consider whitening masks twice a week at night. Neutrogena Whitening, Lancome Blanc Expert and Etude House have very potent masks that visibly brighten the skin.

Cleanse face thoroughly, then apply the mask and leave on following the advised time on package. Remove mask, then wipe on other parts of the body like neck, décollete, arms, shoulders and upper back. Do not rinse off till morning. You should have at least a shade lighter skin when you wake up!

Monday, 5 August 2013

Alesha Dixon: My mum taught me that beauty is only skin deep

Fresh from presenting ITV show Your Face Sounds Familiar, plus working as a judge alongside Simon Cowell on Britain’s Got Talent, the girl from Welwyn Garden City, Hertfordshire, is busier than ever and has no intention of slowing down once her baby is born.

“I am a hard worker so I will always work hard. I just take things as they come and take it day by day,” the 34-year-old says.

The TV star and singer is fiercely private and until recently she’d managed to keep her romance with former backing dancer Azuka Ononye, 32, whom she has known for seven years, out of the public eye.

However they are thrilled to be expecting a baby together.

“I’m very happy,” the mum-to-be beams. Fans will be pleased to hear it because despite being a successful household name Alesha’s journey has been a bumpy one.

Alesha-Dixon-looking-stunning

In 1999 she was propelled to chart fame with girl group Mis-Teeq who went on to have three top 10 double platinum albums but split up six years later.

That wasn’t going to hold Alesha back and her steely ambitious streak saw her work hard to launch a solo career, though she was eventually dropped from her Polydor record label.

If that wasn’t enough her personal life then hit the rocks when her marriage to pop star MC Harvey collapsed amid the news he’d been having an affair with singer Javine Hylton.

True to form Alesha was fast to find her feet again when she went on to win Strictly Come Dancing in 2007, making her a national treasure. Since then she’s had chart success all over again with songs including The Boy Does Nothing and Drummer Boy and become a stalwart of British TV presenting.

She’s a girl who knows a thing or two about bouncing back.

“When you are knocked down you have two choices. Stay down or get back up stronger,” she says.

“Every person goes through ups and downs in their life but I think they are the moments where you do become a stronger person. It’s your life experience that defines you and makes you who you are.

“So when things happen that are testing I think the best thing to do is not to think ‘oh my life is over, this is the end of the world’, you need to think, ‘how can I learn from this and how can I move forward from this situation?’

“That’s what gives you strength.”

There’s no doubt that her thick-skinned approach to life comes from her own experiences but she is quick to pay homage to other women who empower and inspire her.

“Oprah Winfrey is my ideal. She has a positive mental attitude and everything she does is for the better and for the good. She is a really strong, powerful woman and everything she has achieved she has achieved against the odds.”

It’s no surprise that this feisty female is happy to sing the praises of her fellow woman but she’d love to see even more female solidarity nowadays.

“I think women can be each other’s worst enemy when they want to be but at the same time if more women did have more empathy and not see each other as a threat, women in general would do better.

“We should support each other more as I think there’s always room for more empowerment.

“That’s the reason I love working with Avon because they are a company for women.”

Like most females in the public eye Alesha has flawless skin and a tiny, toned body yet she says it was another important woman in her life who taught her never to fixate on how she looks.

“My mum has always taught me to look deeper than skin deep,” explains Alesha.

“I think it is very tough for women out there. We live in a very vacuous, shallow society where we are very visual but at the heart of everything it is who you are that makes you a success not what you look like.

“I think it is the way you’re raised, it is the women you surround yourself with and what your parents teach you.”

Does she have any insights into how the next generation can start to see that beauty comes from within? “I think if we all realise and acknowledge that no one is perfect, that everybody has something about them that makes them unique and that who you are as a person and your character is more important than how you look, then the world would be a nicer place.”

Aside from wishing we’d all be a bit nicer to each other Alesha’s obviously busy juggling work with the strains of pregnancy but she’s got one golden rule for making sure she always feels her best.

“I drink lots of water. It makes a real difference to your skin and makes you look more awake,” she says. “Oh, and I always wear lip balm and swear by coconut oil for my skin and hair.”

So after all that talk about looking deeper than skin deep is she secretly worried about losing her looks? “Look, no one wants to age but it’s something we all have to face up to. I simply want to continue to love and enjoy my life.”